Fashion material

VEGAN

This fast-growing crop is having its time in the limelight as an apparently eco-friendly option. While the crop itself is easy to grow, requiring little water and no pesticides, the processes used to turn it into a usable fabric vary on the sustainability front. While mechanically made “bamboo linen” is inherently more sustainable, the resulting fabric is coarse, not suitable for the soft, intimate products for which bamboo is most in demand, and not that widely available.

Most bamboo fabric on the market is grown and processed in China using the viscose process. There are two issues that need to be addressed: ensuring the bamboo is grown in a sustainable way and avoiding the release of harmful chemicals used in production into waterways. While in the last few years the Chinese government has cracked down on the more problematic production processes, we remain concerned about the absence of any system of assurance that specific bamboo is grown sustainably and processed using safe or unsafe processes. The exception is Monocel®, a bamboo fabric made with the lyocell process, but it appears to be very difficult to source at this stage. It is now considered bad practice in the industry to not have robust chemical management and waste treatment, which means bamboo fabric, can be likely a safer bet than conventional cotton or polyester.

Our verdict:

Bamboo fabric has a lot of potential as an eco-friendly option. So as long as the brand is transparent about cultivation and processing, it can be a good choice. Otherwise, consider TENCEL™ Lyocell which is made using a 99% closed-loop system, meaning chemicals are captured and reused.

VEGAN

Soft, light, and breathable, cotton is a fibre often associated with quality clothing, and can be found in many wardrobe staples such as jeans and t-shirts. It has the advantage of being entirely biodegradable. However, conventional cotton (GMO and otherwise) is an extremely thirsty crop, one that uses 25% of the world’s pesticides, and one that is often associated with child slavery and forced labour. The process of turning cotton balls into soft or shiny coloured cloth uses a vast array of chemical processes for treating, dyeing, printing, and finishing.Organic cotton addresses many of the problems of conventional cotton. It’s grown without the use of pesticides, from seeds which have not been genetically modified. Organic farming practices avoid using harmful chemicals while aiming for environmental sustainability and the use of fewer resources. Chemical-free agricultural land stays fertile much longer than land, which is hampered by the constant use of pesticides, so organic cotton farmers generally have a longer cotton commodity lifespan than otherwise. Organic cotton is overall much better than regular cotton for the planet and people, including you!

Avoid traditionally farmed cotton and opt instead for recycled cotton or organic cotton, specifically with the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) certification. Not only is it organic, but the GOTS system certifies a brand’s entire supply chain, following its practices -including the dyeing stage- and addresses a range of labour rights issues to be sure high standards of ethics are being maintained throughout the production process.

VEGAN

Hemp, from the cannabis plant, is a type of “best bast fibre” which means it’s one of a number of fibres derived from the stems of plants. It is a highly sustainable crop that requires little water and no pesticides-however, only organic hemp guarantees that no harsh chemicals are used. The fabric has various intrinsic advantages such as keeping you warm in winter, cool in summer, and even protecting you from UV rays. The fibre produced from pure hemp is similar to linen in texture.
Hemp is a far better option than similar fabrics like conventional cotton, and organic hemp is top shelf. To guarantee sustainability, look for GOTS certified options.

VEGAN

Linen is one of the most biodegradable and stylish fabrics in fashion history. It is strong, naturally moth resistant, and made from flax plant fibres, so when untreated (i.e., not dyed) it is fully biodegradable. Linen can withstand high temperatures, and it absorbs moisture without holding bacteria. In fact, it is actually stronger when wet than dry and becomes softer and more pliable the more it is washed.

Our verdict:

Linen is one of the most sustainable options on the market—just be sure to purchase garments in its naturally occurring shades of ivory, ecru, tan, and grey, and especially avoid bright white linen which has to go through an intensive bleaching process. Go for organic linen, one of our top-ranked materials, to ensure no harmful chemicals were used in production.

VEGAN

Modal fibre is the generic name for semi-synthetic rayon. Breathable and silky smooth to the touch, modal is around 50% more water-absorbent per unit volume than cotton. Boasting similar properties to other cellulose fibres like viscose and Tencel lyocell, it’s designed to absorb the dye and stay colour-fast when washed in warm water, making it a popular choice in the manufacture of underwear and activewear alike. Today, one of the best-known producers of modal is the Austrian company Lenzing AG, who now market their version under the name TENCEL™ Modal (previously Lenzing Modal). TENCEL™ Modal is protected by a global certification system which is registered worldwide, and while their production process is sustainable, they do not produce ready-to-wear fabrics. Lenzing sells yarns to mills and others who use the yarns to make fabric and other goods, which means it could be mixed with less eco-friendly fabrics before turning into your next clothing purchase. 

Our verdict: 

Be sure to choose brands with transparent production processes to make sure you’re making the most ethical choice. Rest easy if the brand can assure you that their fabric is made from 100% TENCEL Modal. 

VEGAN

Tencel lyocell is a cellulose fibre which is made by dissolving wood pulp. After chemical treatment, the lengths of fibre are spun into yarn and woven into a breathable cloth suitable for activewear. Lenzing has built Tencel’s reputation by sourcing its wood and pulp from certified and controlled sources like sustainably managed plantations, and by ensuring Tencel is made in a closed loop system, meaning that the chemical solvent is recycled time and time again to produce new fibres and minimize harmful waste. Lenzing Group says the solvent recovery rate is 99% for their lyocell fabric. Recently Lenzing has started using their TENCEL™ brand to apply to their modal fabric as well (see Modal above). 

Our verdict: 

Tencel lyocell is a good replacement for cotton or silk in everything from shirts to underwear. It’s breathable, absorbs moisture, and is soft on the skin. Opt for Tencel over viscose and rayon, which are less sustainable.  

VEGAN

Viscose and the very similar rayon are both derived from the ‘cellulose’ or wood pulp from fast growing, regenerative trees such as eucalyptus, beech and pine, and sometimes plants such as bamboo, soy, and sugar cane. This cellulose material is dissolved in a chemical solution to produce a pulpy viscous substance, which is then spun into fibres that can then be made into threads. Despite being a plant-based fibre, there are two big problems with viscose. First, it’s the third most popular clothing material after polyester and cotton, and second, the fast fashion boom means there is as much wood pulp used for viscose manufacture as for creating paper, and so it’s now one of the leading causes of deforestation in places like Indonesia, Canada, and the Amazon. What’s more, viscose production leads to untreated waste being dumped into lakes and waterways causing harm to lives and livelihoods. 

Some viscose is made from sustainable forest products-look out for brands that use only FSC certified forest inputs and/or work with the Canopy NGO. 

Alternatives to viscose include TENCEL Lyocell (closed loop capture of chemicals) and new materials such as ECOVERO™ made using sustainable wood from controlled sources.  

Our verdict: 

If a brand isn’t upfront about the sustainable status of their viscose, give it a miss! 

NOT VEGAN

Angora is a long, silky fibre obtained from one of the four breeds of Angora rabbit. The fur is highly prized for its softness, warmth, and strength. It is often blended with other wools to add softness to things like jumpers and scarves. The production of angora has come under fire since PETA released information about the appalling conditions in which it was being produced in several Chinese factories. As a result, many major fashion labels ceased using the controversial fibre. 

Our verdict: 

In theory, there is an “ethical” way to harvest angora fur -by simply collecting the animal’s natural moults- but there is no recognized welfare standard so we recommend avoiding angora products entirely. 

NOT VEGAN

Cashmere is one of the rarest and most luxurious fibres in the world. This exceptionally silky material is said to be three times as warm as wool and is known to be long-lasting. However, cashmere is not as sustainable as you might think: the goats this fabric comes from are the first to pay the price of cheap cashmere production. As they have very little fat, shearing them too early mid-winter means they can freeze to death. Cashmere production can also have a social impact—there’s growing concern about the working conditions of cashmere goat herders. 

The increased demand for cashmere has meant herd sizes have increased, driving the desertification of Mongolian grasslands. And climate change is exacerbating these impacts: the changes in temperature in Mongolia has meant poor quality cashmere as goats need to be sheared in a narrow range of temperatures. 

Our verdict: 

Buy recycled or second-hand cashmere if you must have it. 

At the same time, the animals involved became commodified opening the door to inhumane practices, like being skinned alive. For many of us, wearing fur is simply cruel, and to be avoided at all costs. Campaign groups such as PETA have long highlighted the inhumane practices of fur farms. That isn’t to mention all the environmental and labour issues fur-farming has, many the same as leather.
While secondhand  second-hand fur is available, it still perpetuates the idea that it is okay to wear the bodies of our fellow earthlings. Numerous brands and countries have banned the farming and distribution of fur products, so don’t stay stuck in the past on this one.Aside from the obvious issues with animal welfare, leather production has negative impacts on the environment and workers, too. It requires more water and land than almost any other material, and the tanning process involves extremely harmful chemicals like chromium 6 that end up in waterways and labourers’ bodies.Vegetable tanning, which has long been considered the sustainable option for tanning, is under scrutiny about how sustainable it really is. It’s a bit better, but likely not as good as previously thought.Our verdict:There are many innovative materials emerging designed to mimic the qualities of leather, from pineapple leather to cork to upcycled rubber. While the full environmental impact of these new materials has not been fully assessed, they are certainly preferable to “faux leather” made from PVC, or likely the more common vegan or “faux” leather made from PU. While PU has significant environmental impact, it’s a better option than other synthetics like PVC.

NOT VEGAN

Silk is spun from the long threads which make up the inner cocoon of a silkworm. The fibres are in fact saliva, produced by the worm to insulate itself until it is time to transform. The raw silk threads are harvested and then reeled together for commercial use. The silkworms are killed during the process of extracting the silk. There have also been reports of the abuse of child slaves in India in silk production, so checking sources is important. 

In addition to this, silk has relatively high emissions intensity, particularly in the yarn and fabric production stages. In fact, its supply chain is one of the most intensive per kg according to the Sustainable Apparel Coalition. It is possible to find less lethal alternatives to the silk-making process. Ahimsa silk, also known as ‘peace silk’, allows the moth to evacuate the cocoon before it is boiled. Some silks that fall under the Ahimsa umbrella include ‘Eri silk’ and ‘Tussar silk’. Unfortunately, peace silk isn’t necessarily much better for the environment! 

For those who want to avoid animal silk for its negative impacts, one vegan silk innovation that is worth looking out for is vegan spider silk! Microsilk is the trademarked name of a lab-made spider silk produced by California-based Company Bolt Threads. It is a synthetic fabric, but one which requires no land or chemicals to produce—only water, yeast, sugar, and a pinch of DNA. 

Our verdict: 

When it comes to buying silk or its alternatives, check sources to ensure that you don’t buy into exploitation or environmental destruction. Currently, Microsilk is only commercialized to a limited extent, but the fabric has already received a stamp of approval from renowned brands like Stella McCartney. 

NOT VEGAN

There is controversy over the practice of mulesing the sheep (cutting away skin to reduce flystrike, usually done without anaesthetic). Until a humane mulesing process becomes common we recommend against wool from mulesed sheep. Industrial scale livestock grazing can also increase land clearing and degradation, though more holistic land management methods for grazing livestock animals are gaining popularity and support. 

Wool lasts well and so it’s always worth looking out for pre-loved or vintage wool items to ensure the garment gets a longer, useful life. 

Our verdict: 

Look for clothes made from recycled wool, resale and vintage items, or wool certified by the Responsible Wool Standard, ZQ Merino Standard, or the Soil Association Organic Standards. 

VEGAN

The significant ethical and environmental impacts of the fur industry have caused a shift in the industry towards fur-free, which is great news. But the look of fur is still, unfortunately, in vogue, and the mass-produced faux fur alternative is far from eco-friendly. Faux fur is generally made from plastic-based materials (hello, microfibres) and that automatically speaks to negative impacts on the planet, but even more shockingly, it has come out that since fur is in such high demand, a significant amount of faux fur products actually contain real fur! 

Our verdict: 

Steer clear of this harmful material. If you must have it, look out for second hand options, but seriously consider a completely different material—you don’t have to buy real or faux fur to make a bold statement with your outfit! 

VEGAN

Fleece is a synthetic insulating fabric made from a type of polyester called polyethylene terephthalate (PET) or other synthetic fibres. It is very comfortable due to its lightweight and anti-perspiration qualities, making it ideal for outdoor and activewear. Unfortunately, fleece is made from non-renewable resources and needs an extra chemical coating to make it windproof and/or water resistant-not great for the environment. Eco-fleece, using recycled PET plastic, can be seen as a better option saving its primary ingredient -raw petroleum- as well as energy. It also potentially reduces the number of bottles in landfills. 

Synthetic fibres, recycled or not, pose a problem as they are not biodegradable and tend to bind with molecules of harmful chemical pollutants found in wastewater, such as pesticides. 

Fleece, especially when it is used in frequently washed clothing, is one of the main shedders of microfibres on the market. If you opt for eco-fleece, you should learn how to care for it so minimal shedding occurs. 

Our verdict: 

As far as possible steer clear of fleece. 

VEGAN

Much of the glitter available for cosmetics, craft, and clothing is made from sheets of thin plastic such as PET, coated in a shiny substance like aluminium, and cut into millions of tiny pieces-in other words, glitter is microplastic. That means every time we rinse our glitter-laced clothes, wash our glitter adorned hair and face, or let our glitter-encrusted accessories shed little pieces of sparkle, we’re likely contributing to microplastic pollution in our oceans, and that’s bad news for everyone. 

But glitter fans, don’t fret! Several companies have created eco-friendly glitter alternatives made from biodegradable materials, so you don’t have to give up sparkles if you care about the planet. 

Our verdict: 

Avoid plastic glitter in all products. Look for products with glitter made from biodegradable sources. 

VEGAN

Nylon was the first entirely synthetic fabric, created in the time of World War II. Essentially, nylon starts as a type of plastic derived from coal and crude oil that is then put through an intensive chemical process to create the strong, stretchy fibres that make it so as useful as a fabric. In addition to supporting some of the world’s dirtiest industries, the manufacture of nylon has several other direct environmental impacts that means it’s its bad news across the board. 

Econyl is an innovative alternative made from recycled plastic in a closed loop system. Note that products made from nylon and Econyl are both likely to shed microfibres. 

ECONYL, created by Italian firm Aquafil, uses synthetic waste such as industrial plastic, waste fabric, and fishing nets from oceans, then recycles and regenerates them into a new nylon yarn that is exactly the same quality as virgin nylon. This regeneration system focuses on six steps that form a closed loop that uses less water and creates less waste than traditional nylon production methods. Waste is collected, then cleaned and shredded, depolymerized to extract nylon, polymerized, transformed into yarn, and then re-commercialized into textile products. 

Our verdict: 

Avoid traditional nylon and instead go for Econyl while remaining vigilant about microfibers shedding! But while ECONYL is a fantastic innovation that is helping to clear plastic waste from our oceans and protect sea life, it is still a plastic fabric that means it sheds microfibers when washed (one of the biggest water pollutants). To avoid this but still support the initiative, choose ECONYL items that are less frequently washed like footwear, and make sure to use a washbag or washing machine filter if you buy clothing made from this (and other plastic-based) material. Companies are in the process of creating a form of ECONYL that doesn’t shed, so keep your eyes peeled for that! 

VEGAN

Polyester is a common plastic derived from oil with a wide application that includes and extends beyond the fashion industry. The majority of polyesters are not biodegradable, meaning that the polyester fabric shirt you bought last season will not decompose for 20 years at best and 200 years at worst, depending on conditions. What’s more, polyester is, in part, derived from petroleum—and the oil manufacturing industry is the world’s largest polluter. 

In the past few years, the sustainable fashion sphere has been introduced to recycled PET plastic. Recycled PET plastic is usually made from recycled plastic bottles or fishing nets. Buying recycled PET plastic means you’re minimizing waste and cutting out the fossil fuel industry, but it doesn’t erase the issue of microplastic pollution. 

Our verdict: 

Avoid virgin polyester. Consider buying recycled PET plastic products, especially for products that don’t require frequent machine washing like shoes. 

VEGAN

PVC is a petrochemical product that is heavily processed from start to finish and can take an enormous variety of forms. Vinyon, as the textile derivative of PVC, is popular for its weather-resistant qualities in coats, jackets, and even skiing equipment, artificial leathers, or fetish fashion. PVC/Vinyon requires oil to extract the base components and lots of energy to react the chemicals together. That means it’s hugely reliant on fossil fuels. Couple that with the potential health risks of phthalates, and the overwhelming pressure of plastic waste on our oceans, and you have yourself one of the most unsustainable materials on the market. 

Our verdict: 

For a sustainable wardrobe, avoid PVC! 

VEGAN

Humans have been using rubber for more than 1000 years, but it’s only in the last few years that we’ve started seeing more of the squeaky material in fashion, from the catwalk to our wardrobes.
Gone are the days when rubber -or latex- was only associated with fetish clubs and underground cultures.
Today, more and more designers are incorporating the material into their collections.

Rubber is a strong, elastic and super stretchy material that can either be natural or synthetic.
It can be soft or hard, and this versatility means it can be used in a wide variety of items. Natural rubber is made using latex, the runny, milky white sap that oozes from certain plants and trees when you cut into them. Today, most of the natural rubber used in the world comes from the latex of the Hevea brasiliensis, also known as the rubber tree. In reality, even natural rubber production is far from perfect, and it does pose some threat to the Earth and its inhabitants.

For Example; natural rubber production causes deforestation and threatens biodiversity.

Because we can’t produce enough natural rubber to meet our needs, we also make synthetic rubber, which is made -as you might have already guessed- with chemicals. Synthetic rubber production uses crude oil, which is non-renewable, non-biodegradable, and release harmful chemicals into the environment.

If you’re interested in buying an item that contains rubber, we recommend checking where the material comes from and if it is fairly and sustainably sourced. Recycled rubber is also an excellent, more sustainable option. Our verdict: For a sustainable wardrobe, avoid rubber or alternatively use rubber which is sustainably sourced or recycled rubber.

VEGAN

That long adored stretch and comfort is due mostly to a petroleum-based fiber called elastane- a man-made fiber known for its elasticity. The public is more familiar with the term spandex, which is an anagram for the word “expand,” the most notable characteristic of elastane fibers”. Lycra is another familiar name for this fabric, though it is not a synonym but a specific brand name for spandex materials. 

Elastane is made from fossil fuels, which are nonrenewable resources that take millions of years to form. The uninhibited extraction of a limited substance can never be sustainable. The making of elastane is also a chemical-heavy process that has caused devastating health problems. Polyurethane, elastane’s precursor, is a known carcinogenic. Because of the nature of the fabric, synthetic dyes are generally used. Synthetic dyes are notoriously one of the most polluting factors in textile manufacturing. They affect not only aquatic plants and animals but the water supply humans depend on, as well. 

The mixing of spandex with what one might consider a more sustainable fabric is actually common. The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) actually allows for the garment to have 5% spandex while still being labelled organic. 

VEGAN

It is difficult to dye synthetic fabric with natural dyes, and most natural dye suppliers will tell you just that. One problem with using natural dyes is the necessary use of heat that degrades the fabric. The key seems to be in the pre-treatment of the textiles.

One study chemically changed the surface of a material using a photosensitized oxidation process. This involves the use of an ultraviolet ozone treatment, which avoids heat degradation. While this study only used curcumin (yellow) and saffron (red) dyes, the dyes showed promising results with washing and light fastness tests.

A more recent investigation confirmed the used of UV/ozone treatments and analysed plasma treatments. Plasma sputtering treatment is a dry method involving the use of a copper sulphate mordant. Mordents are very important in the process of dyeing synthetics naturally because they greatly enhance the longevity of the colour.